Japan is a country pulled in two radically different directions. It deeply honors its past but rushes headlong into the future. Hyper-modernity exists side by side with the quiet serenity of ancient shrines and gardens. On this voyage we discover both of these aspects. The traditional aesthetic is evident everywhere in the architecture and adornments of the Buddhist and Shinto shrines we visit throughout our journey, in a traditional tea ceremony, and in our private audience with the Abbot of Kofukuji Temple in Nagasaki. The modernist impulse is evident in the architecture of the cities through which we travel and also represented in the arts on display in the Adachi Museum in Sakaiminato, in the Pusan Museum of Art, and in the Ohara Museum of Art in Kurashiki. Sampling Japanese food and drink; experiencing traditions of music and dance; witnessing the practice of religion; viewing art both ancient and modern; walking through modern cities and admiring ancient shrines – these are the elements of our immersion in the culture of Japan.